News From Haiti

Parting Shots

2006-06-29T09:26:00.000-04:00

Two of our young guests find the couch very comfortable.

A regular fruit buffet as part of our breakfast this morning - mango, pineapple, watermelon and banana. Guests sometimes comment ahead of time as to whether it will be a 3,4 or 5 fruit breakfast, depending on what is in season. There is always fruit in every season in Haiti.

Some of the guests enjoyed the outside dining room while having their breakfast. The fruit was followed by french toast served with real maple syrup donated from Canada.

This group that started with 18 was with us for a week. Many were adoptive parents. Time to load all the souveniers for the trip to the airport.

A final view of our inviting pool at the guest house. I was able to refresh the mural by mixing a number of paint colors to try to blend in with the original artist. Swimming is the norm 365 days a year here and a welcome relief from the heat.

I will be leaving for St. Catharines, Ontario on Sunday so this will be the last blog entry from Haiti. Pam had already returned at the beginning of June to resume her job and I will be looking for employment after the initial priorities of getting my motorcycle running again and playing a game of golf.

Reflecting for a moment on our year here I would have to say that our goals were achieved and exceeded. We wanted to take a year away to have more time for each other rather than the fast pace of life and jobs in North America. We wanted to experience some risk and adventure while trying to adapt in a new culture - one that had warm winters! We wanted to learn to know new people and we've met dozens, actually hundreds, of fascinating people from all over the world. Then in terms of the guest house we wanted to help establish a wider client base to ensure a successful future, especially for the staff who work here but also for the agricultural cooperatives who are also partially supported by funds generated here. In our first full month of September 05 we had 38 guests for the entire month. Last night we had 42 who stayed with us and the month's total will be just over 400. The political climate is a great determiner of guest occupancy but God has been very good to the ministry of the guest house and to us as a couple. Yes, we did sample a few of the local illnesses but they are long gone from our memory. Thank you to all of you who have taken the time to follow our blog, to pray for us and to send us notes of encouragement.

The guest house is currently looking for a new North American manager to work with our very capable Haitian manager Veniel to carry on the service of the guest house. Because the majority of our guests are North American we find this arrangement to be the most beneficial. We are delighted to welcome Sandy who will be here for July and August but then come September the assignment is open for application. The guest house is part of a non profit organization called Foundation for International Development Assistance. Please write to the exective director of FIDA Canada - Betsy Wall at: Betsy.Wall@fida-pch.org

Scene This Week

2006-06-24T21:30:00.000-04:00

On one of my guest tours this week we stopped at the Olafson Hotel. On the grounds there was work being done to create a completely mobile stage for Haiti's first all Creole opera. Nick Whalen, one of our guests, had been able to secure an interview with the director, Hans Fels one evening. Fels had told him, "This country is so beaten, they deserve a good opera for a change". The opera will tour the Haitian countryside as well as the major cities. The numerous paintings were brilliantly done by a Port au Prince tap tap (taxi) painter. The painting below depicts the blowing of the conch shell which is the symbol of the beginning of the Haitian revolution for independence from French slavery. You can view Nick's complete article and photos by going to: berkshireeagle.com "Dispatches from Haiti"

I noticed this hotel as I looked over the trees beyond the Olafson Hotel. I asked a Haitian workman what it was and he said it was the "Hotel de Haiti" and "Baby Doc" Duvalier used to live there when he was in power. It looked abandoned at this point but would have overlooked the ocean and been a prime location in its day. Port au Prince has many buildings which give indication of its former glory and hopefully one day soon the fortunes of the city and the country will improve.

This week we heard a huge "boom" which announced that another truck tire had met its match in one of our potholes in front of the guest house. The inside of the rear dual was finished. What I found especially interesting was the caption on the truck. Obviously it once said: "Trust in God" but was now reduced to "Rust in God". Various applications can be made. When trust wanes, faith gets rusty. Or - over time if trust erodes, we need to re-establish our spiritual priorities to give a creditable witness. Or - just because a person does trust, it doesn't mean that negative circumstances won't still occur - like blown tires. Or - you can add your own. At any rate, the water haulers decided there wasn't much they could do to fix it with a full load of water so they got back in the truck and continued on at a slower pace. An example of blind _rust.

Celebration of God

2006-06-18T13:37:00.000-04:00

On Thursday, June 15, a holiday in Haiti, I happened to look over the balcony and notice that police motorcycles had closed our street. Soon after I heard music and singing and that drew me to go out to investigate. I came upon the street scene depicted in the first picture. I discovered that it was a Catholic holiday called "Fet de Dieu" or in English - Feast of God or Celebration of God. There were about 1000 people gathered on the street listening, singing and celebrating.

A truck equipped with an assortment of huge speakers amplifying the music was the means of letting people know they were in the neighborhood. It would stop every few blocks for the people in the area to gather round. In the truck was a worship team leading the songs in harmony. It was obviously very meanigful to the gathered crowd as many were praying and singing along.

When one song had a chorus that repeated the name of "Jesus" many of the gathered crowd raised their arms in worship as well as waving flowers. It felt good to be part of this celebration of faith and I had to think of how different this was than Canadian society. First of all on a holiday shopping is a major concern while in Port au Prince not even the small convenience stores were open. Having music played openly on the streets, especially religious music, would likely have required numerous permits to be obtained first, if they would even be granted. Then would people have come out of their homes to worship and celebrate on the streets in an obvious display of spiritual vibrancy and dedication to God? Most likely not.

One way the celebration was similar to Canada was the way street vendors were able to take advantage of a great selling opportunity with the gathered crowds. This man makes snow cones and these individuals with their carts are familiar all over the city. In the center of the cart is a large block of ice covered by a sheet of plastic to try to keep it from melting too quickly. When he has an order he uses a small tool to scrape the ice into shavings which he puts into a plastic cup. Several filled cups are visible on the top right side of the cart. When he has made the desired number he then asks which flavor of snow cone they desire and the bottles all around the cart contain a great variety of colored and flavored syrups. This is poured on the shaved ice and the snow cone is complete. A great treat on a hot day in any country!

Captured and Captioned from the Balcony

2006-06-10T22:57:00.000-04:00

Introducing the head table . . .

The journey gets more difficult when you bottle things up.

Feeling bagged on a load of charcoal.

How can you balance that stuff on your hand?

Best seat on the truck!

Please break down beside the curb next time!

Coffee Run to Jacmel

2006-06-04T21:42:00.000-04:00

This past week I made a coffee run from Port au Prince to Jacmel with my niece Janine who was visiting from Barrie. Unlike a Canadian run where you go to the next Tim Horton's, we were actually transporting 10 bags of coffee beans from one of our mountain co-ops to a coffee exporting co-op on the way to Jacmel. After traveling along the coast for an hour we needed to wind our way over the beautiful mountain range as you see depicted.

However, the road had a curve every hundred feet so with all the turns the truck looked distorted when we got out for some pictures. This is Jacques who is an agronomist with Productive Cooperatives Haiti which is the organization that Walls Guest House is affiliated with.

We delivered the coffee to this warehouse which made our ten bags seem like a drop in a cup.

These tables are normally occupied by the individuals who hand sort the coffee beans. Make sure you appreciate all the work that goes into your next cup of coffee.

After our delivery we continued to the beach outside Jacmel and spent a few hours snorkeling in this cove. We were out beyond the rocks on the far right and saw some beautiful fish and coral formations.

On our way back to Port au Prince we were behind this motorcycle family. In Canada that would mean at least two motorcycles. If you count carefully you'll notice four heads and the shoe sticking out the front is the youngest daughter riding side saddle on the tank in front of her dad. Three and four on a bike is common. Five is becoming crowded but at least the helmuts don't get in the way.

Pam has returned to Canada as of June 1 to continue her employment and I'll be joining her in another month. The scenes there won't be nearly as impressive as many that we've come across in Haiti in this past year.

Cite Soleil

2006-05-29T13:22:00.000-04:00

We have wanted to visit the notorious Cite Soleil for some time. Before the election, it was not considered safe to do so.

One sees the rows of tin housing from the plane as when you approach Port-au-Prince from the air. However, you get a different feel as you stroll amongst the houses on the ground - if indeed they can be called houses.
Six of us had the opportunity to meet some of the residents of this part of the city Sunday as we walked amongst the crowded shacks.

We met children and adults but as usual I enjoyed meeting the children the most. The children here do not have difficulty with childhood obesity like many in North American do.

This is the area closest to the water - usually the preferred location for real estate. Somehow in this city, it does not meet the criteria for most preferred housing.

Instead of playgrounds and yards, the children play on garbage remains. When it rains, all the garbage from regions higher in the city runs down to the water's edge and - you guessed it - right into this neighbourhood.

The children were curious about us - and those that knew some English tried to start conversations - we did not get asked for money once - they simply wanted to be our friend. I noticed runny noses and productive coughs - we heard that there is only one doctor for 1000's of residents.

The only animals that seem healthy are the pigs that you may notice in the water behind these children.

No doubt Janine is wondering just how to feel about everything she is seeing.

I know I am.

In the afternoon, we visited 2 friends further up the hill. One lives in a penthouse apartment and the other in a house along the ridge of the mountains much like this one.

The higher one goes up into the mountains the bigger the homes are. Security becomes more of an issue then as well.

This is an indoor garden that is common in many of the homes here.

This home is a spacious, multi-bedroomed 3 level home. One can't accuse the owners of not caring about their fellow Haitians - both are working to improve the standard of living for the less fortunate. One has a large school in Cite Soleil, one is working with peasants in rural Haiti.
The problem of poverty has never been simple.

On another note, I happened to come upon two scenes in the "staff lounge" (laundry room) this week that I thought were amusing. I peeked around the corner of the door one afternoon to catch Henri with a pile of feathers on the floor, calmly plucking a small bird clean. I gasped and hurried out but later returned to catch him on camera. He is always ready to laugh at my reactions.

The other time involved the women calling my
name as I walked by one morning. They wanted to show me their "new clothes" and the fashion show that they were having. So we took pictures and laughed at them strutting up and down the room in some of my clothes and shoes. You see, I am packing and giving away some things that I don't need. It's true - I am leaving tomorrow - back to Canada to resume my job in St. Catharines. Waldo will stay another month to carry on assisting at the Guest House and will keep us informed of his adventures here until the end of June.

The Way We Saw It

2006-05-21T16:11:00.000-04:00

One last view of the remains of the former Toyota inferno in front of the guest house. This resting place is a few blocks away and it sits upside down with all the parts removed. However, recycling is never complete in Haiti so there may still be more plans for what's left.

Meet John, Gorman and Omega who have come to the guest house for the last few Tuesdays for a few hour cram session on English pronunciation, word meanings and idiom explanations. They are three keen young English teachers who are committed to teach the English language as expertly as possible.

Tony, one of our street vendors is busy staining and varnishing window slats from the guest house. We have employed him to refresh some of our wood surfaces which also include panels, doors and a bannister. Not only does his labour improve the look of the guest house but he hires his two sons to assist him plus another friend so the good fortune of a short term job is passed on to others.

Pedestrians beware on any Port au Prince street. You not only need to look both ways before you cross but also during as the guest house location is on a corner. (try this at home with 50 pounds on your head) Brakes are used to avoid collisions and open manholes but those on foot need to constantly listen for vehicle sounds and horns as any part of the road or even sidewalk is fair territory for a driver.

Our guest house driver, Tillus, is the proud father of three of these girls and two of them and their friends celebrated their first communion today. He rented a suit and we provided him with our truck for the day to shuttle his family between home, church and reception.

One of the girls was enthralled with Pam's white skin as she pinched and rubbed her arm to see how it would react. Whites are a definite minority in Haiti and many people would never have the opportunity to interact with a white skinned person up close. Pam didn't mind the scrutiny and made another new friend.

Inauguration Day and More

2006-05-14T15:04:00.000-04:00

Today is a very important day in Haiti. President Rene Preval has been inaugurated (finally) and people are very interested in the political process. We rented a TV for the day so our guards and Sunday staff would be able to see the official proceedings at the palace and cathedral. There are high hopes for Preval and he had been meeting many world leaders in the past two months to prepare for a positive beginning to his second term as president. Some of his priorities appear to be electrical power, health care and road repair. In terms of the safety situation here it continues to be calm and peaceful. In a conversation with a guest today he mentioned that he had heard that warnings continue to be given in the world community advising against travel to Haiti. The reason given was that there was a lack of police in some areas of the country. As we discussed the situation we shook our heads as from our perspective the lack of police means that the situation does not warrent a police presence - rather than a reason for concern. Fortunately more North Americans are returning to Haiti for mission, service and tourist reasons and those I have met who stay at our guest house are often surprised and pleased at the positive situation they find in Haiti.

These are a few of our guests from this past week negotiating with the vendors outside our front gate. For those who saw a previous blog about a car fire in that same location, notice the small pile of garbage on the street. That was what was left of the car that I had swept into a pile that morning. We finally got tired of the eyesore after a week and towed it (scrapping along the road) a few blocks down the street with our truck. It was already missing all the wheels and front suspension and transmission as it was being scavenged daily. After two days in its new location all that is left is the floor of the car. Recycling here does not require a crusher!

More bartering for beautiful Haitian creations. Dan decided to take them all which made the choice simple.

This litte girl was the daughter of the street vendor and kept smiling and waving at me until I took her picture. Her obvious joy as well as innocent shyness translates the same in any culture.

Another location uptown is famous for artwork as a whole city block is one large gallery. Prices are cheaper when you buy in multiples so come with your cash in hand. Jennifer is trying to walk away from this sales pitch. The vendors often gather around the truck as I pull up with potential buyers.

These are two outstanding ladies, Maryann and Dorothy, who came to Port au Prince for a week along with family to work at an orphanage down the street from the guest house. They painted, built shelves, bought all new mattresses and pillows and much more. Hats off to them on behalf of the 31 children and support workers at the orphanage!

Worth Celebrating

2006-05-06T15:44:00.000-04:00

We had an engagement at the GuestHouse last week! This is Greg who came to Haiti to visit Artooz whom he's been writing for the last 6 months. They decided after a week that they had enough in common to get married and he popped the question - through an interpreter!. She said yes - through the interpreter! The next 6-12 months will no doubt see them both busy learning each other's language as she applies to US immigration.

This is Ralph sitting in the middle of the picture - he was playing Santa Claus at an orphanage down the street - giving out toys and candy to the 30 some children who live there. It's fun for the person giving the presents and also for the kids getting them. However it adds to the notion many Haitian children have that the foreigner is just a source of hand-outs - be it money or otherwise. These children are not going to be adopted but rather are the first benefactors of a newly formed NGO called HaitianOrphan'sProject - which will help them to become healthy and productive citizens of their own country. The founders are also staying at the GuestHouse this week.

Our cook was 2 hours late for work one day this week. Turns out he was standing in one of these line-ups, which we saw all over the city - for new cellphones. There's a new company that has decided to get in on the market in Haiti and we saw banners and huge signs all over the city advertising it. This cellphone is newer, better and cheaper. Once again we notice the contrasts this country boasts - from donkeys and cooking on charcoal burners to SUV's and the latest technology - often all on the same street.

And finally, we celebrated Waldo's birthday today. (You may notice some white in his hair that you haven't seen before - it's actually paint as he took time out from painting to eat cake. The beard's natural though). The staff enjoyed singing Happy Birthday and wishing him Bon Fet.

Sunday Afternoon Car Fire

2006-05-01T19:22:00.000-04:00

At one o'clock on Sunday afternoon I heard Pam shouting my name and knew it wasn't just a call for a leftover dessert. I rushed downstairs and saw a guest dipping a bucket into our pool to carry water to a car fire that had just started directly in front of our guest house. I grabbed the bucket but when I saw the flames reaching above our fence I knew that water was no match for this inferno. I told people to get back inside the gate due to the risk of explosions. Meanwhile I ran upstairs with my camera to capture the moment. This first picture was taken only about a minute after the fire started.

The second picture was looking down from the top of the roof but the heat was incredible even from the third storey. Fortunately the woman driving had stopped when she saw smoke rising from under her hood. Then when she saw the beginning of flames she ordered her 8 year old son out the passenger door while she jumped out without her shoes on and leaving her purse behind. She told us later it contained $1000. US plus Haitian money plus her passport and other documents. There was no time to retrieve it and although shaken, both her and her son were fine. Our guests all took protective cover as small explosions kept everyone on edge.

This is the front view as I put my hand with the camera through the razor wire. Just as I was holding it another explosion rang out and I was fortunate not to drop it on the sidewalk or rake my hand on the wire in my haste to bring it to safety.

The vehicle was a fairly late model Toyota. They apparently burn well but I suppose all models would perform equally in this scenerio. Meanwhile traffic on the street continued normally. This is the third car fire I've witnessed in the city so I suppose it becomes ho hum after awhile.

Twenty minutes after the beginning a firetruck arrived with siren blaring. I had never seen a firetruck in Port au Prince so I wasn't really expecting one. Notice that the fire is in it's latter stages.

I was struck by the lack of protective gear worn by the firefighters. The man with the coat was the only one I observed who had any covering. Notice the lack of gloves on the hands.

The water cooled the car quickly and the crowd moved in for a closer look. Not much salvageable but I'm sure the tin sculpters will make good use of the doors and hood for their excellent creations.

On the other hand, maybe it will just stay as a scupture unto itself outside the guest house for the next few months.

(remember to click on the pictures to enlarge)

Seen Around Town Last Week

2006-04-23T08:48:00.000-04:00

A work crew on our street. Did the new president send them?

The iceman cometh.

A welcoming hammock at Norwich House.

An unexpected mountain view.

A back street cathedral off Delmas 64.

The Hotel Olafson, made famous by Graham Greene's novel - The Comedians. Look for Pam in the picture. Jason is even harder to find.

Couldn't resist a pepsi and sandwich at the Olafson with our friend Jason.

(click pictures to enlarge)

Conflict Resolution

2006-04-22T15:03:00.000-04:00

Conflict is a part of any relationship and society. We've mentioned before that in Haiti disputants can escalate quickly as voices are raised and attention is drawn. Bystanders seem welcome to enter the argument and we couldn't help overhearing and seeing what went on across the street from us this morning. The disputants are actually the woman in the dotted dress on the right and the man next to the gate. However the woman in the blue skirt had come across the street to give her input. Passersby begin to accumulate. Another inquisitive crowd is on the opposite sidewalk below my vantage point on the roof.

The man points to the woman's child as it seems that he is somehow part of the altercation. The speed of their Creole exchanges made it impossible for me to decipher - perhaps just as well!

The lady in front of whose gate they were arguing opened it to check the situation. It didn't remain open long as she probably realized it was better to listen from behind a barrier.

More onlookers accumulated and the man in the light blue shirt with the hat began to apply Proverbs 15:18b - a patient man calms a quarrel. He kept talking quietly to the man until the situation began to settle.

Closing arguments were conluded as the woman appealed to the gathered crowd while the man in blue is continuing his reconciliation work. Gradually all dispersed and it was once again quiet on the street - except for the traffic, the vendors calling for customers, the roosters, the sounds of Port au Prince . . .

P.S - Reserve your time at Wall's Guest House and be part of the action!

(remember to click pictures to enlarge)

Easter Weekend

2006-04-16T16:05:00.000-04:00

We hosted a number of groups this week - medical teams, engineers and students. This particular group was from a college in Pennsylvania. They were a group of 10 students who had spent all week doing manual labor at a rural village project.
I show you this picture because the truck is by far the most common way of carrying a group of people. We observe a diversity of live cargo rumble through the S-shaped intersection in front of our Guest House - laborers, students, wedding guests, soccer players, and also goats and chickens - all in trucks of various sizes.

The next picture was taken on Good Friday - the clouds seemed particularly expressive as the day turned to night. As we look out over the city from our flat rooftop vantage point each evening, we can see hundreds of kites dancing in the warm tropical breeze. (The kites are made from recylced colored plastic with very long strings that forever seem to be getting tangled in wires and trees). I have yet to tire of our daily end-of-the-day repose on the roof. This is where we observe the evolving sky and listen to the lively sounds of the spirited people around us. Sounds that I associate with a warm summer evening in Ontario, are present here all year around - children playing, adults talking, music playing, dogs barking - the difference is that there are more of them( both people and sounds) packed closer together.

This is a parade that we saw today and several times in the last week. It was led by people carrying flags as well as drummers, dancers and singers. When I asked one of our vendors about it he explained that it was a voodoo tradition called a Ra Ra. When I asked him if his children participated in Ra Ra's, he said "oh no, I take my children to a christian church and teach them about Jesus." I have not met one native agnostic in Haiti.

This is Leah, Karli and Marie - daughters of friends at our church. They are standing in front of a flower-decorated cross where we celebrated Easter at Quesqueya Chapel this morning.

Palm Sunday

2006-04-09T19:42:00.000-04:00

Palm Sunday in Haiti involves processions with real palms. The pastor cut enough from the palm trees in the churchyard for about 40 children to wave on their way into the sanctuary. They enjoyed tickling those sitting along the aisles as they paraded by.

A baptism followed the morning service as two boys were baptized with the assistance of their fathers in the pool

The trip back to the guest house on main Delmas included a typical UN siting. The driver wasn't waving at us - rather at another jeep parked at the side of the road. The truck behind is also UN and is loaded with what appears to be UN off duty personnel embarking on a day trip - most likely to the beach.

Being caught in traffic meant an assortment of children coming to beg at our windows. These boys were easier to handle than most. Whereas the young girls often try to force tears as they stand at the window and tug on our arms, these two were ready to engage in conversation and brighten our day.

This motorcyclist was driving in the lane to our left against traffic and then got through the barrier to get in line ahead of us. He wasn't there long. As soon as there was an opening he was across lanes and down the sidewalk looking for any advantage to make forward progress.

This gentleman was one of many vendors who came to our window as well. He was selling deep fried plantain bananas (papitas). We bought a package for 10 gourdes - about 25 cents US. We then used them as our offering to the children who were begging for money. They accepted them but it was obvious that they would prefer money.

Finally we arrived back at the guest house, having dropped off our load of hitch-hikers along the way who always fill the back of our truck as we leave church. Another typical Palm Sunday in Haiti!

Logic and Little Ones

2006-04-01T13:33:00.000-05:00

This was taken in a pensive moment this week when we stole away to a nearby Lodge for lunch. As we have had no formal way of taking a day off since January, we have to grab a few hours now and then.It's necessary to leave the premises just to be away from constant demands and interruptions. And since our truck was grounded because of a worn-out clutch, we had to walk the few kilometers - but it was worth it just to get away.
We chatted with the owner of this establishment who had first come to Haiti to upgrade a similar hotel. He had lived in a number of different countries all over the world before coming to Haiti. His goal was to increase the efficiency of both operations and management and he estimated that it would take 3 months to complete the project. It took him 3 years !! Three years to accomplish what he thought would take him 3 months! I understand completely. We've entered our last 3 months of our time here in Haiti. We are much busier than we've been in the past. The March calendar shows 350 guests altogether - that's good news for Walls and for FIDA. It spells hope for our future and hope for Haiti generally as visitors are again looking at Haiti as a safe place to visit. It's also time for us to evaluate what we've done and to consider what we want to accomplish at the GuestHouse in the time remaining. I have a feeling we need 3 years instead of one.
While on our walk we observed this wall of murals getting a face-lift outside a bottling plant. Most of the drinks available in North America are also popular in Haiti. Is there any place Pepsi isn't sold?

Whenever we walk we are a target of curiosity amongst school children walking home from school. We see the tailored uniforms in every color of the rainbow - representing as many different schools. We visited one school in particular this week where our friend Kim is volunteering as school administrator. One of the challenges she has faced is teaching the children to think logically for themselves. Children in most Haitian schools learn by chorusing back to the teacher what is read aloud to them. It is strictly a learning by memorization method. When Kim tries to make a practical application to the Grade 5 children by asking them how many oranges there would be if she had 17 and took away 9, they do not know. They also do not know whether she is multiplying, subtracting or dividing. This occurs in spite of the children knowing their arithmatic tables perfectly. It's the practical problem-solving that is not taught. Without learning to problem-solve, knowlege in and of itself is not always helpful. A teacher in Canada told me recently that children at home have to problem-solve in grade 1 already. The method of memorizing facts changes little from year to year in the Haitian tradition. I chuckle at memories of the "new math" that my own Gr. 6 teacher was forced to learn and how many times the methods of teaching have been revised since then in
Canadian schools.
I mentioned that children are curious about us. They love to practise their English with the "Blancs". Occasionally Waldo cannot resist taking out his camera and snapping their pictures. The scene invariably turns into the one shown on the left - a mob scene as each one clamors to be in the picture and to see what they look like as he shows them the result.

The term "special Ed." seems to be foreign in Haiti as is the concept. The school that Kim administrates has a higher number of children with handicaps. That is because regular schools discourage children from attending. Here, at Coram ( a school supported in Ontario, Canada) they are welcomed and feel safe and loved. This is one of the little boys that I met there.
One of our 350 guests this week was a "repeat customer". I posted a picture of Waldo with Sissy when she was 2 months old. Now she is 4 months and greeting everyone with smiles. We never begrudge the fact that our children haven't made us grandparents because we have ample opportunities to practise grandparenting with such little ones. Sissy and her brother were here for 2 weeks.

We're not dead

2006-03-19T18:08:00.000-05:00

For those of you who are wondering why we don't write (this is for you Mom and Dad), it's because our communication has been cut off. After over a week of everything that could go wrong actually doing so on the computer system here, communication has finally been restored.

Overall I think we came out ahead of things not working this week. Although one washing machine is still not fixed from before Christmas, several sinks actually did get repaired. Our second telephone line as well has been restored - it's only been since November! Now if only that light fixture, the second fridge, that office chair, the painting .....never mind I have lots of patience. As one of our Haitian clients commented on the matter of repairs - "Haiti is a very special country!". I use that term every time I'm frustrated with things taking so long.

The Citadelle

2006-03-19T15:38:00.000-05:00

It is truly the 8th wonder of the world! Henri Christophe built the citadelle on top of the highest peak in northern Haiti where he could watch the activities coming in from the sea in the north, as well as the valleys and plains to the south. It was meant to ward off another attack from the French. The amazing thing is how he managed to build this monstrous stone and brick structure with 4 meter thick walls, 40 meters high without any cement. Our Haitian guide reported that 20,000 people were needed to build it - many of whom died during the 15 years it took to complete it.

These were the royal family headquarters.
Seems a bit drab for my taste.

How many loves of bread do you think is needed for 5000 troops?
This was the oven.

How many canons does one actually need? These are some of the over 100 in the citadelle. Piles of canons are stacked in throughout - still waiting for the French to attack.

OK Ray, get away from the edge of that wall - you're scaring me!

Christoff's brother-in-law is not remembered for his intelligence. He made the fatal mistake of smoking in the magazine room.

This casket houses his arm and his leg - all that remained after the incident (well I thought it was funny).

Sometimes a picture just can't capture the immensity of the thing.

The Sans Souci Palace located 1.5 km below the citadelle only took 3 yrs to build. I probably could have been happy here.

Labadie

2006-03-18T15:50:00.000-05:00

They tell the cruise ship passengers that they are stopping on an island - Paradise Island, they call it. Passengers come ashore on smaller vessels and enjoy entertainment, shopping, and wonderful food. They lay on lounge chairs which dot the beach and sip on tropical drinks. Some rest under palm trees while others rent jet skis or try parasailing. All the while very few of them know that they are on the northern shore of Haiti!! They simply call it Labadie - which is in fact the name of the village close by and the cove that surrounds it. I will never forget the look on one passenger's face when we told him that he was not on an island but was in fact in Haiti. He walked away speechless, mouth open, as if just awoken from a dream.

Our host was Father John Duarte, founder of HEARTS FOR HAITI in the village of Labadie, accessible only by boat. He has special privaledges with the cruise line (indeed we came to the conclusion that that there was no one that Father John did NOT know - both in his own village of some 3000 and in Cap Haitian where he drove us around. We must have stopped about 30 times as he greeted people on the trip to and from Cap). We were allowed in the special fantasy beach area to partake of food and privileges while dozens of Haitians waited outside - hidden by high walls. They were hoping to be first in line when new jobs were offered, to clean up after guests or perhaps just for the opportunity of going through the garbage when the ship left.

The occasion of our trip was a visit from Pam's sister and brother-in-law, Ray and Linda, who had come from Vancouver Island, B.C to visit. We took the opportunity to visit the north end of Haiti for 4 days and were not disappointed. We stayed at the Guest House of "Hearts for Haiti" in Labadee for 2 nights. Here you see the outdoor dining area outside Father John's house.

We enjoyed a day cruising on the water and visiting different beaches. Here you see us on the smallest island I have ever seen - really nothing more than a sandbar amongst the coral reefs in the middle of the ocean. It was quite a phenomonon to see waves rolling in on all sides at once.

Several times a week, 12 months a year, villagers at Labadie wake of to the presence of a huge white cruise ship anchored in the harbour. The gigantic floating hotels create a sharp contrast to the small brightly colored wooden boats on the shore. Father John is working on starting a fishing co-operative with the local people as their supplies of fish are dwindling each year. The co-operative would allow for the use of larger fishing vessels that could safely go further out for more productive catch.

His work supports a church and a medical clinic as well as a large school. Linda, who is a teacher took great interest in the school children. They always seem so engaging in their colorful uniforms and inquisitive faces. The happy sounds of them chanting their lessons echoed throughout the morning air. Their schools have a feeding program as well - the children all get a rice meal each morning at about 11:00 - the first meal of the day for many children.

After we returned to Cap Haitian we visited another mission - led by "friends of friends". Tom and Helen from Leamington, Ontario introduced us to the work that they do with Kids Alive International Canada. We were impressed that someone our age -( ie within 10 years of retirement) - would commit themselves long term to supporting distitute children in Haiti. It was inspiring, to say the least.

When one looks at the whole picture, it sometimes seems overwhelmingly hopeless but when one sees the differences individuals are making, we are quite in awe.

Back in Haiti

2006-03-02T09:16:00.000-05:00

It was a whirlwind trip back to Canada - fundraising, family, friends and food.
And of course the necessary waiting in line-ups in customs, in airports and airplanes. We found that by the end of a week of talking (and eating) in Canada, we had a desire to go back to our "job" in Haiti. Once here, we are not entirely content either, noticing the displaced feeling has not entirely dissipated. I suppose that one's feeling of belonging has a lot to do with filling a niche and one's contentment is merely internal.

We had an afternoon and evening in Miami while we waited for connecting flights and were grateful for the rest and reflection time. We seemed to hit the ground running once we got back in Port-au-Prince. The GuestHouse did well under the leadership of Veniel, a new role for him, and numbers are indeed up now that the country is seen to be stable again. We feel that the next few months will go by quickly for us.

Waldo has been busy installing new ceiling fans, phones, and light bulbs - gifts graciously given for the Guest House from Penner Building Supplies in Virgil, Ontario. Replacing worn out parts is often a problem in Haiti. We have been waiting for a replacement part for one of our washing machines for about 3 months now.

It was fun to see long term and returning guests again. This morning we said good-bye to Melanie who was finally able to take her 3 adopted kids home. I also read a letter to the staff from another guest who feels like family. It occurs to me that we all need a community where we feel at home and accepted - people who miss us when we're gone and care about us when we're here.

The fund-raiser in Elmira - a sold-out crowd who gave more than $10,000 for FIDA-Pch

We also presented at Luther village in Waterloo - here we are with Jack and Ann Wall, who live there.

Here are some of our saturday morning Tim Horton's gang. I don't miss Tim Horton's coffee because Haitian coffee is pretty good - however the assortment of donuts and muffins are something to dream about on a lean day. These people mostly chew the fat, though.

Here we are around another table filled with food - this time at my parents.

Can you sense the common theme of food? We both gained at least 3 pounds.

I also connected with a childhood friend of mine - Carolyn and husband Robert. I was so impressed to hear of their recent project in Guatemala, a result of wanting to affect people in another country who are less fortunate. They are working primarily in a village outside Guatemala city attracting volunteers and paying a co-ordinator to organize the work. The goal is to raise the standard of living by helping them get fair prices for their goods, helping to build houses and other means. All this is accomplished by offering proceeds from the business - Global Shores - that they share with family.

And finally, a big thank-you to Pari who works in the Waterloo FIDA office and manages most everything from "behind the scenes". She handles the details and keeps everything running smoothly. Thanks, Pari.

And a big thank-you to everyone who hosted us, cooked for us, took us out to dinner, and generally humored us by acting interested in all we had to say. It was great to see you!

Celebration

2006-02-16T07:44:00.000-05:00

We heard demonstrations and noise until the wee hours of the morning - it was the 5th day of demonstrations. Apparently the polititians were awake all night as well because this morning they've announced that there is a winner. The CEP (the organization responsible for the elections) has declared that Preval has the necessary 50.15% to be declared the winner. They declared the fact at just after 3:00 am. This morning there is a celebratory air in the city. Singing, chanting and spontaneous parades already during our breakfast time. Tap-taps are again running, horns are honking and TOUT MOUN KONTAN! (everyone is happy!).
I don't know how they reworked the results but I do believe this to be the best solution for Haiti at this point. The common folks feel that they have somehow shown the superpowers that they cannot be ignored. The scene from our balcony early this morning - notice the branches that people are waving. It reminds us of Palm Sunday coming up.

People are again going to work - business as usual.

This means planes will again be flying and we can continue to expect new guests.

Heating Up

2006-02-13T14:34:00.000-05:00

We agreed not to leave the compound of the Guest House today. Last night we listened to music, speeches on far-off loud speakers and just general noisy crowds in the distance until about midnight. Today the people have declared a general strike. I am once again amazed at how effectively the people are able to tell the leaders that they are unhappy with what is happening. There are no schools open, no transit running, no businesses operating. Instead there have been demonstrations and protest parades. Roadblocks have been set up around the city, including main Delmas - many roads are not passable. The sound of helicopters whirling overhead is frequent. We see black smoke billowing upward in many directions indicating that tires are burning. People are upset because they sense that Rene Preval is being held back, amidst reports of ballots gone missing and miscounted. "Give us our president" they chant.
The problem is that there is always controversy about who is in charge. Every department and ruling body blames another for the confusion. Rumors abound about bribe money from candidates being supported by foreign powers.
All the people know is that they want their president and they are tired of waiting!

The view from our balcony today saw groups of young men tearing down posters of the opposition. Many wore Preval T-shirts and hats - one young man offered me a hat, but I declined from my perch on the second storey.

Once again vehicles and trucks raced by, loaded with young people singing, chanting and shouting. Police and UN vehicles also made their hurried patrol around the corner in front of our GuestHouse. I noticed that today each one carried no less than 6 armed men.

And of course for some members of the neighbourhood, it is business as usual. These goats are not afraid and neither are we. Here you see me watching Waldo on the opposite roof where he is checking the water tank. We spend a lot of time on the roof these days!

Election Week - as viewed from our Balcony

2006-02-11T19:28:00.000-05:00

We could sense the difference as soon as we woke up last Sunday. Not the usual car and foot traffic plus an undercurrent of excitement. The campaigning started in earnest that day. Trucks like this one loaded full with young Haitian men would drive by slowly down the street. The riders threw leaflets into the air and generally attracted attention by the incredibly loud boom boxes that followed behind them. They love attaching giant speakers on top of their vehicles as well as inside (or filling pickup trucks with them) and then cranking up the volume to the highest possible decible level. Everyone on the street knows they're there. We were treated to a number of parades like this.
Monday was quiet, as if in anticipation. All schools were ordered closed for several days and most businesses followed suit. Election day started early with most public transport - tap taps and buses - suspended. People started walking very early while it was still dark, most determined to exercise their right to vote. Many had to wait a long time as polls, which were to open at 6:00 am, only opened at 9:00. This caused some problems throughout the city, generally however, things were conducted in orderly fashion.

And now the wait for ballots to be counted. It has already been a week and the official announcement of results has still not been made. For polls in the remote mountains areas donkeys were used to carry the ballots, so it is understandable that the process takes time. It seems that Haitians have embraced the democratic method of being able to cast their votes for the candidate of their choice.

Today people on the street were itching to celebrate a victory for the favored candidate. However, it has still not been announced and we cross our fingers hoping for a favourable outcome. The majority are hoping it will be Preval.

Step Right Up - Hear All About It

2006-02-01T15:35:00.000-05:00

Our life in Haiti! It looks a bit different than life in North America. Would you like to hear more? Well if you're tired of watching those Leafs lose and eating bad pizza, we have a suggestion to make. Take a trip to Elmira, Ontario for the annual FIDA fund-raiser.
Why Elmira you ask? Because that's where we'll be on Tuesday Feb 21st, at 6:30 pm telling you all about it. Yup! We're flying home right to the heart of Mennonite country to meet all those farmers who help support Fida with their donations, and of course to taste Sarah Marten's world famous potatoes! The food alone will be worth it - have you heard of Mennonite cooking?

We're only doing it once so don't miss it - (unless you come incognito to Luther Village Senior's Residance in Waterloo the next day - but don't tell them I said that!)

This enjoyable event will take place at Elmira Lions' Hall (on 40 South St. West, Elmira) and starts with an all-you-can-eat roast dinner that only costs $15.00 - can you believe it? There's musical entertainment and yeah, Waldo and Pam showing our pictures and telling about our experiences. So come on down!

But don't forget - you need to RSVP to Pari at the Fida office by Feb 17, 2006. She can be reached by phoning (519) 886-9520.

We won't have time to connect with many of you that we'd like to on this whirlwind trip - so if you can make it there, we'd love to see you!

Transitions

2006-01-29T16:05:00.000-05:00

Life is full of changes. This week we attended the farewell party of the Fida -pcH field director Janet Bauman. We feasted on conch, fancy rice and stuffed turkey (our first taste of turkey since leaving Canada - they had to drag us away from the buffet table) and we listened to the PCH staff give tributes to their outgoing leader.

This is a picture of Janet cutting her cake surrounded by PCH staff.
We also attended another meeting introducing the new
director and hearing at the same time that we would now be taking on the role of Guest House Managers (as well as Assistant Managers). This makes us feel very versatile - not to mention busy. And busy is good - numbers have been up both in December and January - despite the unsettled times - more people are again coming to Haiti to visit, conduct business and carry out their missions. We are happy to host them!

One of the privileges of our duties at the Guest House is that we are constantly meeting fascinating people. Many become friends as they stay longer or come back repeatedly.
It also means we are constantly saying hello and good-bye.
We just said good-bye to Dja - our local expert on Haitian culture and history. He is leaving this week for a 3 month tour in USA to enlighten and educate people about his countrymen.
We also said good-bye to Melanie, an adoptive mom, who came for a day and stayed for a month, waiting for her adoptive childrens' papers to be finalized (they phoned to say that they were ready the morning she returned home alone). Melanie coined the term "comedy hour on the roof" - Waldo's evening entertainment contribution for our guests. Actually it's not the same without your hearty laugh Melanie!
We said hello to Paul Jackson (on the left) a Canadian author, lecturer and tennis player extraordinaire - who has come to stay with us for 3 months while he researches his next book(s).

This next picture shows our youngest guest this last week. At 2 months she knew how to charm everyone with her big eyes and cute smile.
We also had three Cuban seniors stay here this week. I tried to resurrect the Spanish that I had learned last year but try as I might, only Creole (and then some German) seemed to come to my mind. It is a terrible thing to get old!
And speaking of old, that is one more transition that I needed to make today. I celebrated another birthday as I made the transition from one number to the next. Waldo bought a birthday cake that we shared with staff and guests.

And lastly it has been confirmed this week that we will be flying back to Ontario to share our experiences and pictures at a fund-raiser dinner for FIDA. It will be held on Feb 21 in Waterloo.
Watch for specific details to follow!

Communicating

2006-01-22T09:25:00.000-05:00

At first I think there must be an argument. I hear loud deliberate dialogue at 04:00 in the morning - 5 or 6 voices talking all at once. As I walk out onto the balcony to investigate, I realize that the speakers are all facing different directions and they are walking up and down the street. The guards explain that they are evangelists preaching. As I watch, they move up and down the 4 streets that intersect in front of our Guest House, preaching fervently. Eventually they form a circle in the middle of the intersection and begin to sing hymns with rhythmic clapping and two part harmony. After a while they move down the street to repeat this activity in a different part of town. We have heard this several times since moving to Haiti - always in the stillness of predawn, with roosters as the only active audience.
When I ask the Haitians why the preachers choose that hour of the day, they say it is because they have the attention of people at that time. There is no traffic or noise to interfere with their message and people can lie in their beds quietly listening to what God wants to say them at that time.

I realize that effective communication varies - I have discovered a new method this week by downloading an easily accessible program onto my computer (Skype - thanks Doreen!). It allows me to talk from my computer to my son's computer by voice. I recline on my bed (also my couch) and talk to Conrad with a small mike in my hand. It sounds like he is in the next room and I am grateful to hear his voice and the nuances of moods and words.
My daughter has e-mailed from Africa. Though she is in a remote village and has to travel 40 km to get to the closest internet, she has a cellphone. Thus I can phone her from my computer!
As Waldo and I talk to her this morning (midafternoon for her) we are again grateful for modern technology which allows us to communicate with our loved ones. When Waldo's sister left for Africa some 30 years ago, her parents had to rely on letters which took weeks to travel one direction. The world has literally become smaller as communication technology is accessed.
Cara has started her own blogspot to chronicle her activities. It is a blogspot which is called www.adventurecara.blogspot.com