Sunday, March 19, 2006

We're not dead

For those of you who are wondering why we don't write (this is for you Mom and Dad), it's because our communication has been cut off. After over a week of everything that could go wrong actually doing so on the computer system here, communication has finally been restored.

Overall I think we came out ahead of things not working this week. Although one washing machine is still not fixed from before Christmas, several sinks actually did get repaired. Our second telephone line as well has been restored - it's only been since November! Now if only that light fixture, the second fridge, that office chair, the painting .....never mind I have lots of patience. As one of our Haitian clients commented on the matter of repairs - "Haiti is a very special country!". I use that term every time I'm frustrated with things taking so long.

The Citadelle


It is truly the 8th wonder of the world! Henri Christophe built the citadelle on top of the highest peak in northern Haiti where he could watch the activities coming in from the sea in the north, as well as the valleys and plains to the south. It was meant to ward off another attack from the French. The amazing thing is how he managed to build this monstrous stone and brick structure with 4 meter thick walls, 40 meters high without any cement. Our Haitian guide reported that 20,000 people were needed to build it - many of whom died during the 15 years it took to complete it.



These were the royal family headquarters.
Seems a bit drab for my taste.






How many loves of bread do you think is needed for 5000 troops?
This was the oven.





How many canons does one actually need? These are some of the over 100 in the citadelle. Piles of canons are stacked in throughout - still waiting for the French to attack.








OK Ray, get away from the edge of that wall - you're scaring me!







Christoff's brother-in-law is not remembered for his intelligence. He made the fatal mistake of smoking in the magazine room.

This casket houses his arm and his leg - all that remained after the incident (well I thought it was funny).





Sometimes a picture just can't capture the immensity of the thing.

The Sans Souci Palace located 1.5 km below the citadelle only took 3 yrs to build. I probably could have been happy here.

Saturday, March 18, 2006

Labadie

They tell the cruise ship passengers that they are stopping on an island - Paradise Island, they call it. Passengers come ashore on smaller vessels and enjoy entertainment, shopping, and wonderful food. They lay on lounge chairs which dot the beach and sip on tropical drinks. Some rest under palm trees while others rent jet skis or try parasailing. All the while very few of them know that they are on the northern shore of Haiti!! They simply call it Labadie - which is in fact the name of the village close by and the cove that surrounds it. I will never forget the look on one passenger's face when we told him that he was not on an island but was in fact in Haiti. He walked away speechless, mouth open, as if just awoken from a dream.

Our host was Father John Duarte, founder of HEARTS FOR HAITI in the village of Labadie, accessible only by boat. He has special privaledges with the cruise line (indeed we came to the conclusion that that there was no one that Father John did NOT know - both in his own village of some 3000 and in Cap Haitian where he drove us around. We must have stopped about 30 times as he greeted people on the trip to and from Cap). We were allowed in the special fantasy beach area to partake of food and privileges while dozens of Haitians waited outside - hidden by high walls. They were hoping to be first in line when new jobs were offered, to clean up after guests or perhaps just for the opportunity of going through the garbage when the ship left.

The occasion of our trip was a visit from Pam's sister and brother-in-law, Ray and Linda, who had come from Vancouver Island, B.C to visit. We took the opportunity to visit the north end of Haiti for 4 days and were not disappointed. We stayed at the Guest House of "Hearts for Haiti" in Labadee for 2 nights. Here you see the outdoor dining area outside Father John's house.





We enjoyed a day cruising on the water and visiting different beaches. Here you see us on the smallest island I have ever seen - really nothing more than a sandbar amongst the coral reefs in the middle of the ocean. It was quite a phenomonon to see waves rolling in on all sides at once.





Several times a week, 12 months a year, villagers at Labadie wake of to the presence of a huge white cruise ship anchored in the harbour. The gigantic floating hotels create a sharp contrast to the small brightly colored wooden boats on the shore. Father John is working on starting a fishing co-operative with the local people as their supplies of fish are dwindling each year. The co-operative would allow for the use of larger fishing vessels that could safely go further out for more productive catch.



His work supports a church and a medical clinic as well as a large school. Linda, who is a teacher took great interest in the school children. They always seem so engaging in their colorful uniforms and inquisitive faces. The happy sounds of them chanting their lessons echoed throughout the morning air. Their schools have a feeding program as well - the children all get a rice meal each morning at about 11:00 - the first meal of the day for many children.




After we returned to Cap Haitian we visited another mission - led by "friends of friends". Tom and Helen from Leamington, Ontario introduced us to the work that they do with Kids Alive International Canada. We were impressed that someone our age -( ie within 10 years of retirement) - would commit themselves long term to supporting distitute children in Haiti. It was inspiring, to say the least.


When one looks at the whole picture, it sometimes seems overwhelmingly hopeless but when one sees the differences individuals are making, we are quite in awe.

Thursday, March 02, 2006

Back in Haiti

It was a whirlwind trip back to Canada - fundraising, family, friends and food.
And of course the necessary waiting in line-ups in customs, in airports and airplanes. We found that by the end of a week of talking (and eating) in Canada, we had a desire to go back to our "job" in Haiti. Once here, we are not entirely content either, noticing the displaced feeling has not entirely dissipated. I suppose that one's feeling of belonging has a lot to do with filling a niche and one's contentment is merely internal.

We had an afternoon and evening in Miami while we waited for connecting flights and were grateful for the rest and reflection time. We seemed to hit the ground running once we got back in Port-au-Prince. The GuestHouse did well under the leadership of Veniel, a new role for him, and numbers are indeed up now that the country is seen to be stable again. We feel that the next few months will go by quickly for us.

Waldo has been busy installing new ceiling fans, phones, and light bulbs - gifts graciously given for the Guest House from Penner Building Supplies in Virgil, Ontario. Replacing worn out parts is often a problem in Haiti. We have been waiting for a replacement part for one of our washing machines for about 3 months now.

It was fun to see long term and returning guests again. This morning we said good-bye to Melanie who was finally able to take her 3 adopted kids home. I also read a letter to the staff from another guest who feels like family. It occurs to me that we all need a community where we feel at home and accepted - people who miss us when we're gone and care about us when we're here.

The fund-raiser in Elmira - a sold-out crowd who gave more than $10,000 for FIDA-Pch









We also presented at Luther village in Waterloo - here we are with Jack and Ann Wall, who live there.

Here are some of our saturday morning Tim Horton's gang. I don't miss Tim Horton's coffee because Haitian coffee is pretty good - however the assortment of donuts and muffins are something to dream about on a lean day. These people mostly chew the fat, though.

Here we are around another table filled with food - this time at my parents.

Can you sense the common theme of food? We both gained at least 3 pounds.


I also connected with a childhood friend of mine - Carolyn and husband Robert. I was so impressed to hear of their recent project in Guatemala, a result of wanting to affect people in another country who are less fortunate. They are working primarily in a village outside Guatemala city attracting volunteers and paying a co-ordinator to organize the work. The goal is to raise the standard of living by helping them get fair prices for their goods, helping to build houses and other means. All this is accomplished by offering proceeds from the business - Global Shores - that they share with family.

And finally, a big thank-you to Pari who works in the Waterloo FIDA office and manages most everything from "behind the scenes". She handles the details and keeps everything running smoothly. Thanks, Pari.

And a big thank-you to everyone who hosted us, cooked for us, took us out to dinner, and generally humored us by acting interested in all we had to say. It was great to see you!